We are delighted to share the 2020 vintage report and wine reviews from famed Barolo and Barbaresco producer Pio Cesare. The Barolos and Barbarescos 2020 will be released in the UK at the beginning of May 2024. Please get in touch with your sales manager or with Valeria Maffeis on valeria.maffeis@mmdltd.co.uk to find out about our pre-release offer.
2020 VINTAGE REPORT
The 2020 vintage joins a series of exceptional years, exhibiting great poise and seductive fruit concentration, with promising ageing potential.
Weather Conditions
Winter began with mild, dry conditions, aside from notable early and widespread snowfalls in November 2019. The vegetative cycle started prematurely, fueled by the sun-drenched months of March and April. However, an unstable May, marked by cooler temperatures and abundant rainfall, slowed grape ripening and facilitated crucial soil moisture accumulation. Warm summer temperatures, peaking above 30°C in late July and early August, were balanced by regular water storms, sustaining vine hydration. September and early October followed with sunny, mild weather, allowing gradual grape ripening.
Nebbiolo
Nebbiolo’s growth initiated early in March but was hindered by lower temperatures in late April. Summer persisted until early September, with Nebbiolo clusters undergoing colour changes by late July and full veraison by early August. Following a temporary slowdown in September, moderated by cooler temperatures and moderate rainfall, Nebbiolo ripening resumed, achieving excellent levels of anthocyanins and polyphenols. Additional sampling protocols were implemented in all Nebbiolo vineyards in collaboration with an external lab and the University of Turin, facilitating precise harvest timing based on ripeness indicators. Harvesting occurred between September 26th and October 5th.
Notes
Despite the challenges posed by the global Covid-19 pandemic, the 2020 vintage emerged as remarkably high-quality. Green harvesting, conducted diligently from late July to late August, enhanced grape concentration, depth, and ripeness. The resulting wines exhibit intense red fruit profiles, with well-integrated oak and balanced acidity, showcasing the noble character of Nebbiolo. Tannins are round, supple, and fresh, promising exceptional ageing potential.
Barolo and Barbaresco 2020
Continuing the family tradition, signature blends for Barolo Pio and Barbaresco Pio were crafted from Nebbiolo grapes sourced from multiple family-owned vineyards. Additionally, limited quantities of single-vineyard Barolo and Barbaresco were produced:
Barolo Ornato 2020 (Serralunga d’Alba): 12,325 bottles produced.
Barolo Mosconi 2020 (Monforte d’Alba): 6,937 bottles produced.
Barbaresco Il Bricco 2020 (Treiso): 6,930 bottles produced.
Ratings
BAROLO PIO 2020
97 points James Suckling
“Very primary fruit with beautiful aromas of peaches, strawberries, berries and flowers. It’s medium- to full-bodied, with bitter citrus, cedar, chocolate and coffee bean character. Tight at the end. From five villages, primarily Serralunga, Monforte, La Morra, Grinzane Cavour and Novello. Needs two or three years to open and will age for a very long time.”
17 points Walter Speller
Mid ruby. Firm cherry nose with a hint of black pepper. Supple cherry fruit with just the right dose of gritty tannins. Very long and inviting. (WS) Drink 2024-2030
91 Points Wine Enthusiast, Jeff Porter
The wine opens with aromas of crushed raspberries and wild cherries kissed with sweet spice and complemented by dried flowers. Elegant and supple on the palate with rounded tannins that yield to the openness of this vintage yet show that the wine has ageability.
BAROLO ORNATO 2020
98 points James Suckling
“This is very focused with lots of ripe tannins in the centre palate. Very velvety and fine-textured with a pointed character. Medium to full body. Aromas of plums and spices such as cinnamon and nutmeg to the fruit. Bitter citrus. Chewy at the end. Taut muscles. Sophisticated. Needs four or five years to come around. Best after 2030.
96 points Decanter, Aldo Fiorelli
“Ornato has been the Pio Cesare estate’s cru since 1985. In 2020, the grapes were harvested on 5 October, after the heavy rainfall. Mineral and smoky, with intense violet notes alongside cherry kernel and rhubarb, it’s full of graphite flavour and almost zestiness on the palate, supported by tight-knit tannins. Polished and thick on the finish.”
95 points Wine Spectator, Bruce Sanderson
“This is firm and tightly wound, with thick, refined tannins setting the stage for cherry, eucalyptus, tobacco and iron flavors, while dusty, mouthcoating tannins infuse the finish. Patience required for the fruit to emerge”
95 points Wine Enthusiast, Cellar Selection
This Barolo from the Ornato vineyard offers enticing aromas of ripe black cherry, cinnamonspiced, cake, candied blood orange zest, and a hint of fresh bay leaf. The palate is exceptionally well-balanced, with a precise, linear structure that showcases flavors of juicy blackberry, dark chocolate, and a touch of vanilla. The wine’s impressive length and depth are evident in the long, satisfying finish.
16 points Walter Speller
Serralunga d’Alba. Just mid ruby. Savoury cherry laced with oak and a hint of iron. Youthful sour cherry and bags of grainy tannins that take overfrom the fruit on the finish. Further bottle age will help. (WS) Drink 2026–2036
BAROLO MOSCONI 2020
99 Points James Suckling
“Enchanting aromas of flowers like violets and lemon blossom, with raspberries and cranberries. Full-bodied yet focused and framed with a structure that builds on your palate and grows and grows, yet it remains fresh and vivid. The tannins are energetic and so, so long. A contemporary jewel. Fascinating. Thoughtful wine. Only the oldest vines are used in this from the 1940s and 1960s.”
95 points Wine Enthusiast, Editor’s Choice Jeff Porter
“The Mosconi unfurls with a medley of ripe plum and cherry, underpinned by the soft perfume of blue violets and rosebuds, with sandalwood, wild herbs, and roasted shiitake adding depth. On the palate, red fruits shine through a refined and silky structure, flanked by a rich tapestry of savory spices and a hint of briny minerality.”
94 Points Wine Spectator, Bruce Sanderson
This rich red features a dense matrix of tannins and lively acidity uplifting its cherry, menthol, mineral spice flavors. Austere for the vintage now, yet there’s good viscosity midpalate this finishes long detailed.
17 points Walter Speller
Monforte d’Alba. Lustrous mid ruby. Brooding, intense cherry nose with savoury-spice notes. Sappy, juicy cherry fruit with a layer of grainy tannins.Very long and well-balanced. Can be approached now. (WS) Drink 2024–2036
BARBARESCO 2020
96 points James Suckling
“Very fine and polished with plum, strawberry cedar aromas as well an iodine, sea shell chocolate undertone. Medium body, ultra-tannins a beautiful finish. It’s poised gorgeous. Such brightness finesse structure. So attractive now but will reward patience. Try after 2028.”
93 points Wine Enthusiast Editor’s Choice
“Earthy and herbaceous, with hints of fruit leaves and a luscious aroma reminiscent of strawberry and red currant jam. Freshly ground spices add depth, including sweet cinnamon and savory thyme. On the palate, encounter a vintage charm with dried cherries, wild herbs, and elegant tannins, evoking the timeless allure of an old-school classic that is delicious now but will refine with age. .”
BARBARESCO IL BRICCO 2020
97 points James Suckling
“Exquisite aromas of strawberries, cherries, hibiscus and cranberries. Hints cedar sandalwood. Medium body, with very fine tannins that run the length wine have melted into beautiful. Give this four or six years to completely open.”
94 points Wine Enthusiast Cellar Selection, Jeff Porter
“As classic as they come, the wines from Il Bricco always shows the passion that Pio Cesare bring to making wine. Aromas of dark cherry jam, plum compote with crushed bay leave and ground spices define the nose. Elegant with a fine line of tannins that runs from the beginning to end that provides a balance bar for the flavors wild berries, black tea and savory spices to perform on, a true high-wire act that is pulled off with near perfections. A gem of a wine.”